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Start here: what is the job?

A customer wants better water and you need to fit the right thing without a chemistry degree. Choose the job; the three steps below change to match it, and the animations further down show how each unit works.

Whole-house filtration on municipal water

In one line: 20 then 5 micron sediment, GAC carbon, a bypass and gauges; UV only if the water is stored or doubtful.

Municipal water arrives chlorinated and usually safe, then a pressure event or a tank sends sediment and taste down the line. The standard job is a point-of-entry set at the meter or the tank: a sediment stage, a carbon stage and, where the customer stores water or the supply is doubtful, UV. Fit it coarse to fine, in the flow direction, with a bypass.

What is usually wrong

Match what the customer complains about to what is in the water, and to the stage that fixes it.

Brown water after an outage; sand in the aerators
Sediment stirred up in the mains by a pressure change, or the bottom of a storage tank. A sediment cartridge at the entry, sized on the flow, catches it.
Sediment cartridge in a housing
Chlorine taste and smell; the customer buys bottled water
The municipal residual. Carbon takes it out; a GAC cartridge for volume at the entry, a carbon block at the kitchen tap.
Activated carbon: GAC or carbon block
White scale on kettles, taps and the geyser element
Hardness. Cartridges do not remove it; a softener does, sized on the hardness and the daily volume.
Water softener with a brine tank
The customer has a JoJo tank as backup and the water goes off
Chlorine fades in a warm tank and bacteria regrow. Filter and UV at the tank outlet, after the booster pump, and keep the tank dark and sealed.
UV steriliser
Housing sump cracked; leaks at the O-ring
Municipal night pressure above 4 bar and water hammer. Housings are rated 6 bar, but most warranties want a pressure-reducing valve ahead of the set above 4 bar.
Pressure-reducing valve ahead of the set
Filters block every few weeks
The stages are in the wrong order or the first one is too fine. Coarse before fine: 20 micron, then 5, then carbon.
Three-stage whole-house set

What to test, and what the numbers mean

A test kit on site and, for a borehole or a rain tank, one laboratory result tell you which stages the job needs. These are the lines to read first for this job, with the numbers that decide the selection.

Read these first for this job

  • Free chlorine

    The municipal residual; taste and smell, and it damages RO membranes.

    Municipal supply
    Typically 0.2 to 1 mg/L at the tap. Carbon block or GAC removes it; put carbon ahead of any RO.
    Borehole
    None, unless you dose it. If you chlorinate for bacteria, carbon after the contact tank takes the taste out at the kitchen.
    Rain tank
    None. If the tank is dosed, the same applies.
  • Hardness

    Calcium and magnesium as mg/L CaCO₃; the scale on kettles and elements. A drop-count kit or strip reads it on site.

    Municipal supply
    Cape Town under about 60 mg/L, Rand Water roughly 60 to 110. Above about 120 the customer sees scale and a UV needs softening ahead of it; above about 200 a softener earns its keep (rule of thumb).
    Borehole
    Often 200 to 600 in dolomitic and Karoo water. Size the softener on the number and the daily volume, and put it after the iron filter.
    Rain tank
    Near zero. Rain needs no softener; it needs the opposite, a calcite stage.
  • Turbidity and sand

    Cloudiness and grit. It blocks cartridges, hides germs from UV and scores pump seals.

    Municipal supply
    Spikes after outages. A 20 micron then 5 micron cartridge set handles it.
    Borehole
    Sand needs a backwashing vessel; cartridges are for polishing after it. Below 1 NTU before the UV.
    Rain tank
    Leaves, dust and roof grit: screens and first flush, then a 20 and a 5 micron cartridge.
  • Flow and pressure

    Litres per minute at the point of entry and the bar behind it. Not a lab line, but it sizes every stage.

    Municipal supply
    A house peaks at roughly 20 to 40 L/min. A 10 inch cartridge is a single-tap device; a 20 inch Big Blue set carries a house. Every stage costs pressure, so keep the count honest.
    Borehole
    The pump sets the flow. Vessels are sized on linear velocity and need a backwash flow two to three times service; check the pump can deliver it or the media never cleans.
    Rain tank
    A booster pump after the tank sets the flow; size the cartridges and the UV on the pump's curve, not the tank's outlet.
  • E. coli and coliforms

    Bacteria from sewage, animals and dirty tanks. E. coli means faecal contamination and must be absent; coliforms on their own still mean something is getting in, and the water needs disinfection before anyone drinks it. You cannot see, taste or strip-test them: it is a laboratory line, and it decides whether UV or UF is part of the job.

    Municipal supply
    Should be zero at the tap; the risk is the customer's own storage tank. UV at the tank outlet.
    Borehole
    Any E. coli, or coliforms, means UV or chlorine for the whole supply and a look at the wellhead. SANS 241: E. coli zero in 100 mL, total coliforms under 10.
    Rain tank
    Assume it is there. UV or UF before anyone drinks it.
Show every line on the checklist

The rest of the checklist

  • Iron and manganese

    Orange and black stains. A strip reads iron on site; the certificate gives both.

    Municipal supply
    Rarely above 0.3 mg/L; a rusty pipe or a tank is the usual source.
    Borehole
    Above 0.3 mg/L iron or 0.1 manganese (SANS 241) it stains and fouls everything downstream. A catalytic media vessel with aeration or chlorine, ahead of the softener, UV and RO.
    Rain tank
    None from the rain; rust from a steel roof or tank shows up as iron.
  • TDS (the salt)

    Everything dissolved, in mg/L. A pocket meter reads it in seconds and it is the number that decides whether RO is on the table.

    Municipal supply
    Usually 50 to 300 mg/L; no RO needed for salt, only for taste preference.
    Borehole
    Anything up to several thousand. Under 1 200 mg/L (SANS 241) it is drinkable; above a few hundred the customer tastes it, and RO at the kitchen tap is the fix.
    Rain tank
    Very low, often under 50 mg/L. That is why it is corrosive.
  • pH

    Below about 6.5 the water eats copper and steel; above 8 it drops scale.

    Municipal supply
    Municipal water is corrected to about 7 to 8.5. Leave it alone.
    Borehole
    Sandy and coastal boreholes can sit at 5 to 6.5 and pit copper; a calcite vessel ahead of the plumbing fixes it.
    Rain tank
    Rain is sour, roughly 5.5 to 6.5, with no buffer. Fit a calcite stage where it feeds copper or a geyser.

Sources: SANS 241:2025 for drinking-water limits; NSF/ANSI 55 Class A (40 mJ/cm²) for UV; manufacturer data for cartridges, housings, media and resin as recorded in the DWT knowledge base; SANS 10252-1 for drains and backflow. Rules of thumb are marked.

What fixes it

In the order the water goes through them. Every fix links to a plain-language guide and, where it helps, a calculator.

  1. Sediment cartridge in a housing

    Sand, grit and brown water; the first stage of every set, and always ahead of carbon, UF, RO and UV.

    A spun polypropylene cartridge (20 micron first, 5 micron after it) in a 10 or 20 inch housing; Big Blue (4.5 inch) housings carry a whole house. Water flows from the outside of the cartridge to the core. Housings hang vertically with the arrow in the flow direction, a bypass and a gauge.

  2. Activated carbon: GAC or carbon block

    Chlorine taste and smell, colour, organics; ahead of RO and UF; the drinking-water stage under the counter.

    A GAC cartridge is loose granules the water flows through end to end; it carries volume and is the whole-house choice. A carbon block is a solid tube the water passes through from outside to core; finer, slower, and the kitchen-tap choice. Neither removes hardness, salt or germs.

  3. Three-stage whole-house set

    Municipal water at the point of entry; the standard job for a house or a small business.

    Three 20 inch Big Blue housings on a bracket: 20 micron sediment, 5 micron sediment, then GAC (or a carbon block on a lower-flow site). Coarse to fine, arrows in the flow direction, a bypass loop, isolation valves and a pressure gauge on each side, and the cartridges changed on pressure drop, not on the calendar. A pressure-reducing valve ahead of it where the supply exceeds 4 bar; the housings sold here are 1 inch BSP.

  4. Water softener with a brine tank

    Hardness above about 120 to 200 mg/L; geysers, kettles, dishwashers and boilers that scale.

    Resin in an FRP vessel with a softener valve and a brine tank of salt. Hard water goes down through the resin, which swaps calcium and magnesium for sodium. When the resin is full the valve backwashes, draws brine through the bed to drain, rinses and refills the brine tank. Metered regeneration, a drain with an air gap, a bypass, and never on the garden tap.

  5. UV steriliser

    Tank water, borehole water and rainwater that will be drunk; any E. coli or coliforms on a certificate.

    A stainless chamber with a lamp in a quartz sleeve; water passes the lamp and the dose kills what is in it. Size it on the flow quoted at 40 mJ/cm² (NSF Class A), not the higher flow quoted at 30 mJ/cm² on the same sheet. It wants clear water: 5 micron ahead of it, iron under 0.3 mg/L, hardness under about 120 mg/L or a softener first, turbidity under 1 NTU. The water around the sleeve also carries the lamp's heat away, so a chamber that holds air or drains cooks the lamp and shortens its life. Mount it vertically with the inlet at the bottom and the outlet at the top, or horizontally with both ports facing up; either way the chamber stays full and air leaves through the outlet. Close to the point of use, room to pull the sleeve, lamp changed yearly whether or not it still glows.

  6. Pressure-reducing valve ahead of the set

    Supply pressure above 4 bar, night pressure spikes, water hammer, cracked sumps and weeping O-rings.

    A plumbing fitting, not a treatment stage: a pressure-reducing valve at the point of entry, set to about 3 to 4 bar, with a gauge after it. Housings are rated 6 bar and most warranties want the valve above 4; it also protects the RO and the geyser valve downstream. Any plumbing merchant stocks them.

What to leave behind, and what to check on a callback

Most callbacks are not equipment failures. They are a customer who was never shown what was installed, or a cartridge nobody could tell was full. Ten minutes at handover saves the trip.

Have this to hand

  • The water result the job was sized on, with the sampling point and date on it.
  • Model and serial off every unit: housing size, cartridge references, vessel and media, valve model, UV model and lamp reference.
  • The measured flow and pressure you sized on, and what the gauges read on the day of commissioning.
  • The manufacturer's own service instructions, handed over rather than left in the box.

What a change usually means

Pressure complaint a few months after handover
Almost always the sediment cartridge doing its job. If you fitted gauges either side and showed the customer the starting numbers, this is a phone call rather than a site visit.
System blocked solid right after a cartridge change
Check the end-type cartridges first: an axial cartridge fitted upside down seals the housing shut. The open centre with the O-ring faces up.
Softener stopped softening
Salt first: empty tank or a bridged crust. Then whether the valve is completing its cycle and whether the drain is clear.
UV lamp still lit but the water fails a test
Output falls long before a lamp goes dark, and a fouled sleeve throttles the dose just as effectively. Check the lamp age, the sleeve and the prefilter before suspecting the unit.

What to send us

  • What the customer reports, at which taps, and whether it is hot, cold or both.
  • The gauge readings now against the commissioning numbers.
  • When the consumables were last changed and with what.
  • A photograph of the installation as it stands, labels legible.

Service intervals, cleaning methods and replacement parts come from the manufacturer's instructions for your actual equipment. What is here helps you notice a change and describe it accurately; it does not replace that documentation, and it is not a substitute for the installer where the work needs one.

How the units work

Four animations that answer the questions customers ask you on site. Switch the state and watch the water.

Two ways water moves through a cartridge, and which way up it goes

The shape of the cartridge decides the path, what the cartridge is good at, and whether the way you drop it into the housing matters.

Sediment cartridges and carbon blocks work radially: water fills the sump around the cartridge, passes through the wall from the outside to the hollow core, and leaves up the core through the head. The cartridge is hollow right through and the same at both ends, so it goes into the housing either way up. Direction does not matter.

Read the full guide

A UV steriliser: vertical or horizontal, right and wrong

Both ports sit on the same side of the chamber. Mounted right, the chamber stays full of water; mounted wrong, it holds air or empties itself. The water also cools the lamp: with the chamber empty, the lamp's heat has nowhere to go, it overheats and its life is cut short.

Chamber vertical, inlet at the bottom port, outlet at the top. Air leaves through the outlet, the chamber stays full and every litre rises past the whole lamp. The 5 micron cartridge ahead of it keeps the sleeve clean; leave room above to pull the sleeve out.

Read the full guide

An FRP vessel and its valve: service, backwash, rinse

The multiport valve on top of the vessel is what makes a media filter clean itself.

Raw water enters through the valve, spreads over the bed and flows down through the media. The bottom strainer collects it, it rises up the riser tube and leaves at the outlet. The dirt stays in the top of the bed.

Read the full guide

A softener and its brine tank: the regeneration cycle

The resin does the softening; the brine tank is how it gets its sodium back.

Hard water flows down through the resin beads. Calcium and magnesium stick to the beads and sodium comes off in their place; soft water rises up the riser to the house. The beads slowly fill up with hardness.

Read the full guide

Things people hear that are not true

The ones we correct most often.

  • A bigger micron number catches more.

    The other way round. 5 micron is finer than 20. Coarse first, fine after, or the fine one blocks in a week.

  • A carbon filter makes water safe to drink.

    Carbon removes taste, smell and chlorine. It removes no bacteria, no hardness and no salt. Germs need UV or UF; salt needs RO.

  • UV works on any water.

    UV needs clear water. Turbidity and iron shield the germs and coat the sleeve. A 5 micron cartridge ahead of it is not optional.

  • Housings can be mounted any way that fits.

    Vertical, sump down, arrow in the flow direction. Sideways they trap air, leak at the O-ring and bypass the cartridge.

  • A UV can lie any way that fits.

    Horizontal is fine with both ports facing up, so the chamber stays full. Ports down and it can empty itself: the lamp runs dry and hot, and air sits along the top where part of the flow misses the dose. Vertical, inlet at the bottom and outlet at the top, is still the best install.

  • A softener needs no drain.

    It backwashes and rinses brine to drain every regeneration. A drain with an air gap, and a place for the brine tank, are part of the quote.

  • RO is just a better filter.

    It is a membrane that needs pressure, a drain for the reject and a tank; it takes the salt out and the taste with it. Right for brak water at the kitchen tap, wasteful as a whole-house default.

  • Cartridges last a year.

    They last until the pressure drop says otherwise. As a guide, sediment three to six months, carbon six to twelve, a UV lamp twelve, an RO membrane two to three years; a gauge on each side of the set tells the customer when, and on a borehole it can be weeks.

The questions we get asked

Short answers. Every one ends in a next step.

Which filter do I sell for a customer who just wants nicer tap water?

On municipal water, a carbon block under the counter with its own tap. It takes the chlorine and the taste out and leaves the minerals in. Add UF if they store water in a tank; go to RO only if the water is brak.

What order do the housings go in?

Coarse to fine, then carbon, then anything delicate: 20 micron sediment, 5 micron sediment, carbon, then UF, RO or UV. Each stage protects the next; reversed, the fine one blocks first and the carbon fouls.

10 inch, 20 inch or Big Blue: how do I choose the housing?

On flow. A 10 inch 2.5 inch cartridge is a single-tap or small-flat device; 20 inch holds about twice the media, so it runs about twice as long on the same water; Big Blue (4.5 inch diameter) carries a whole house at 20 to 40 L/min with a sensible pressure drop. Polypropylene for cold water indoors, stainless where it is hot, exposed or commercial; clear sumps only out of the sun, or they grow algae. Ports here are BSP; imported American housings are NPT and the two do not mate.

What size FRP vessel and which valve?

Vessels are sized on the flow and the media's linear velocity, not on the house. The vessel and valve selector on this site takes the flow and the media and returns the smallest FlowShell vessel and the Runxin valve that can backwash it. Filter valves and softener valves are not interchangeable.

How big must the drain be for a backwashing vessel?

Backwash flow is two to three times the service flow and it arrives all at once: the valve wants at least a 13 mm drain line, 19 mm above about 26 L/min or a run over 6 m, the valve higher than the drain, and an air gap of twice the pipe diameter, never a sealed connection to the sewer. A drain that cannot take the flow means the media never lifts and never cleans.

How much salt does a softener use, and how often does it regenerate?

It depends on the hardness and the volume used: the resin holds a fixed amount of hardness per litre, and the valve regenerates when that is used up. A metered valve counts the litres; a time-clock valve guesses. Coarse softener salt, not rock or granulated; keep the brine tank a third to two-thirds full, above the water line, so a salt bridge cannot form, and never let it run dry. Softened water carries a little sodium, so bypass the garden and, if the customer prefers, the kitchen cold tap.

Which way up does the UV go, and why does it matter?

Vertical, inlet at the bottom port and outlet at the top, both ports on the same side of the chamber: air leaves through the outlet and the chamber stays full. Where there is no height, horizontal is fine with both ports facing up. Ports down, or vertical with the water going in at the top and out at the bottom, and the chamber can drain itself when the flow stops; the lamp runs dry and hot, and the air it holds means part of the flow misses the dose.

Does an RO need a drain and a pump?

A drain, always: a conventional unit sends three or four litres to drain for every litre it makes, through a saddle on the waste pipe above the trap. A pump only if the supply pressure is under about 3 bar or the customer wants a faster fill; a pressure-reducing valve above about 5.5 bar. Discard the first tank, and fit the tank where it can be reached for a membrane change.

What happens to the UV during load-shedding?

The water keeps flowing and nothing is treating it. Fit a normally-closed solenoid valve on the UV outlet that shuts when the power or the lamp fails, or run the ballast from the inverter. After a long stand with no flow the water in the chamber can be hot; let it run off. The same applies to a UV on a tank: put it after the booster pump, never on the pump's suction side.

The borehole customer only wants cartridges. Can I do that?

You can, and you will be back in a month. Sand and iron on a borehole belong in backwashing vessels; cartridges after them polish. Sell the vessel and the valve, or explain why the cartridges will block.

What goes wrong most often on site?

Housings on their side, cartridges in the wrong order, no bypass, no gauges, UV with the ports down or without a prefilter, a softener drain without an air gap or a brine tank never refilled, an RO without a working drain, a vessel whose backwash flow the pump cannot deliver, a clear housing in the sun, and a valve that was soldered to after it was fitted. Every one is a callback.

What should I ask the branch for?

Send the water result (or the on-site readings), the flow in litres per minute, the pressure, and what the customer wants fixed. The branch returns product codes, sizes and lead times. We do not publish prices; when the catalogue opens, every line will show its lead-time band and stock status.

Talk to a person

Phone or WhatsApp the branch nearest you. Send a photo of your water certificate and we will tell you what we see. We quote from your analysis and your flow, and we do not publish prices.

Cape Town

5 Firgrove Way, Firgrove Industrial Estate, Macassar, 7134

Mon to Thu 08:30 to 16:30, Fri 08:30 to 16:00

sales@definitivewater.co.za

Johannesburg

Unit 067, Inospace Allandale Exchange, 917 Morkels Close, Halfway House, Midrand, 1685

Mon to Thu 08:30 to 16:30, Fri 08:30 to 16:00

salesjhb@definitivewater.co.za

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Guides, episodes and calculators

The knowledge-base guides installers use most, each with a podcast episode, in English and Afrikaans.

Written by the Definitive Water Technologies team and technically reviewed by Chandré Naudé, BEng (Civil), 15 years in the water treatment industry.

General guidance for South African residential and light-commercial installations. Sizes and stages follow from the water and the flow; a test result and a branch conversation come before any purchase, and the branch confirms the exact product codes.

These guides are general information, compiled from published standards, manufacturer data and our own experience, and we keep them as accurate as we can. They are not a design, a specification or advice for a particular site. Whoever specifies, installs or operates a system, whether an engineer, an installer, a farmer or a plant manager, remains responsible for checking that what is written here applies to their water and their installation, and for the work itself. Definitive Water Technologies accepts no liability for errors in these pages or for work done on the strength of them. When in doubt, send us the analysis and talk to the branch.